Leaving The Mountains

I met up with Martin, my good friend and cycling partner, in Cusco. We started our journey together with going to some of the many Inca ruins situated in the vicinity of Cusco. It would take too long time to cycle the ruin round-trip, so we got around by “collectivo”, i.e. mini-buses. It was with mixed feelings we returned to Cusco after 3 days of sightseeing. The ruins are spectacular, especially “Moray”, “Pisac” and “Machu Picchu”, which are very well preserved and has withstand centuries of earthquakes.
















What for me destroys the whole experience though, is the bad things that come with mass tourism. Machu Picchu is after all one of the world’s most visited tourist sight, and it’s crawling with people everywhere. This doesn’t bother me that much, it’s mainly the way the locals behave and act towards us as tourists that makes me very uncomfortable; The prices are four times higher than usual, everyone is trying to scam you and you have to haggle for everything, and nothing is genuine (a.k.a. tourist-friendly). Besides, by now I’m so used to the freedom of the bicycle, and having to rely on buses and sneaky drivers was a difficult change. If you have the time and want to go to these ruins, I highly recommend going by bicycle, I regret not doing so myself.

After our trip to the Sacred Valley, we returned to our hostel and started organizing for cycling down towards the coast of Peru. I was very excited after a long break to start cycling again, but we both knew it was going to be hard cycling. There were two passes at altitudes of 4300 m to cross, and several other long hills to climb.

When leaving Cusco we encountered several road blocks on our way, and this was due to a transport strike. This was a superb day of cycling, with no traffic and people who seemed so happy not having to work (and relieved of not having the intense traffic to worry about).









Before I came to Peru, I was warned by other cyclists about the crazy dogs of Peru. I have met many dogs on my trip that have been aggressive, running after me and barking intensely at my moving legs and wheels. In Peru there are just more dogs, sometimes a whole pack that comes raging behind you. I’ve learnt that the best thing is to stop cycling and pick up some stones from the ground, most of the time that’s enough to scare them away. When that’s not helping you’ll have to throw some stones to make them understand. I have nothing against dogs, quite the contrary, but when they try to bite my legs and my bags and run in front of my bike when cycling, I just have to intervene. To show my love to dogs, I have picked some nice pictures of nice dogs! 🙂




When climbing one of the passes on the road to Nasca, we suddenly found ourselves in a thunder/hail/snow-storm. The storm was so close that we could feel the electricity in the air around us. We had to go back to the nearest village and wait it out. When arriving on the top of the pass it started to snow again, and the temperature was around 0 degrees centigrade. That night we stopped in a small village and got to sleep in a small shed that barely fitted the both of us and our bikes.





After the last pass there were a more than 70 km pure downhill road leading to Nasca. We were descending from an altitude of ca 4300 m above sea level down to ca 500 m! When going down this great road, I thought about how I, with only the force of my legs, had created this potential energy that I now got back in form of high velocity and a lot of fun!



Another fascinating fact was that after crossing the ridge of the last pass, we were greeted by a much drier climate and landscape than before; it was such a sudden change from the green surroundings we were used to. Also the temperature changed drastically; when arriving to Nasca it was shy over 30 degrees, a nice change from snowstorms and such!



We met a cyclist who had found an a abandoned dog (they are many here), and decided he couldn’t leave it, so he brought it with him!


Between Nasca and Ica we ended up in a small village with about 20 houses, and the men where on the plaza, drinking Pisco and conversing when we arrived. They said that we didn’t need to worry about where to sleep; they arranged for us to sleep in the municipality, and even offered us food!








Right now we’re taking some days off in Huacachina, an oasis just outside of Ica. Tomorrow we’ll continue on the Pan American towards Lima, and after that we’ll probably head up to the mountains once again for a quick stop in Huaraz and the famous “Cordillera Blanca”. I’m excited!! 🙂

Thank you all for the lovely comments, it’s so nice to see that you like my stories! It means a lot! 🙂

Posted in Stories
18 comments on “Leaving The Mountains
  1. Leif Delén says:

    Hi again.
    Give Martin my regards and I wish you both all the best on your fantastic trip.
    I have been travelling for three months in Bolivia, Chile and Brazil some years ago as a backpacker andI share with excitement your affairs there.
    I was travelling with local transports and were living in families. This is the best way to learn on my travelling. Love and best luck wishing Leif in Sweden 😉

  2. Max says:

    Heja heja! Börjar fĂ„ slut pĂ„ saker att skriva… men ni vet att jag följer er med stort intresse. Kul att fĂ„ se Martin och vad lĂ„nghĂ„rig du blivit Alfred! Ser ballt ut 🙂

  3. Camilla Eriksson says:

    Hej Killar! Wow va kul det Ă€r att se att du har kommit ner Martin och Ă€r uppe pĂ„ cykeln 🙂 Det ser bra ut! Vilket ruiner ni sett,jag blir lika impad varje gĂ„ng jag ser perfektionen av stenarna (Tv). I era live filmer fĂ„r jag nĂ€stan kĂ€nslan hur det var att njuta av nerförsbacke efter lĂ„ng och mödosam uppförsbacke 😉
    Men fy vilket trist vĂ€der uppe i bergen, snack om omstĂ€llning frĂ„n 0 till 30 grader…Men det Ă€r det som Ă€r sĂ„ hĂ€ftigt med att cykla att man Ă€r i vĂ€der/vind/dofter/ och alla möten med mĂ€nniskor. Hundarna det Ă€r trist men ni verkar ha kommit pĂ„ en bra tacktik med sten…man kanske alltid skall ha i fickan sĂ„ ni slipper stanna 😉
    VĂ„ren Ă€r kommer pĂ„ riktigt nu det varmaste i gĂ„r var 17 grader i Kristianstad, Ă€ntligen SOL!!! Önskar er hĂ€rliga Ă€ventyr sĂ„ ses vi snart, hĂ€r igen 🙂 Stora kramar frĂ„n mig

  4. syster yster Linnea says:

    Haha! Jag kommer ihĂ„g de argsinta hundarna MYCKET vĂ€l:) Varför mĂ„ste de vara sĂ„ arga för? Kommer Ă€ven ihĂ„g de politiska budskapen mĂ„lade pĂ„ vĂ€ggarna.. antar att husĂ€garna fĂ„r betalt för det.. Som alltid lika spĂ€nnande att lĂ€sa om era Ă€ventyr! Nu har solen hittat till Sverige och vĂ„rkĂ€nslorna har hittat till Linneas sinne:) Trevlig resa mot Lima.. ska bli intressant att höra vad ni tycker om den staden;).. ps: Alfred…..klipp dig:)

  5. JohanCCC says:

    HallÄ HallÄ!!!

  6. JohanCCC says:

    Hm. RÄkade markera inlÀgget och sedan försvann texten.. Det Àr en sÄn dÀr touchpad, blir lite skum i masken av den.

    Ville egentligen bara hÀlsa lÀget lite o sÄ. önska dig lycka till kanske o tare lugnt.

    Ha de bÀst!

    • Alfred says:

      Ja, det Ă€r inte lĂ€tt med touchpad, man mĂ„ste ju gĂ„ en kurs för att klara av dem. Överskattat… Hoppas allt Ă€r finemang med dig/er, vi ses snart! Ska du till VM i Brasilien?


  7. Paka says:

    SÄ himla kul att se er bÄda ihop! Det ser sjukt kul ut, alltihop.
    KÀmpa pÄ och fortsÀtt njuta utav friheten!

  8. Frida says:

    Hejja hejja mina fina vĂ€nner! Är sĂ„ stolt över er! Och avundsjuk! BĂ„de över er resa och att ni fĂ„r vara med varandra.
    KÀrlek och kramar frÄn Stockholm

  9. Frida says:

    p.s. tycker inte du ska klippa dig Alfred! Du ser ut som en sann Àventyrare nu ju! (;

    • Alfred says:

      Ah, vad bra, opinionen verkar luta Ă„t att jag inte ska klippa mig. Det passar mig bra 🙂 Ibland fĂ„r jag frĂ„gor som; varför har du lĂ„ngt hĂ„r, och ibland skrattar folk Ă„t mig (jag har inte riktigt kommit fram till varför, men jag tror att det beror pĂ„ hĂ„ret). Jag klipper det nĂ€r jag kommer hem och mĂ„ste se anstĂ€ndig ut! 🙂


  10. Annie says:


    Tack för Ànnu ett spÀnnande och vÀlskrivet inlÀgg! Du Àr sÄ bra pÄ att överföra Àventyrs- och frihetskÀnslan i dina inlÀgg, och man kan nÀstan kÀnna hur alla bekymmer bara blÄser av dig nerför den dÀr backen! Hoppas ni laddade tillrÀckligt med energi i Huacachina för att orka med Lima, och hoppas bergen inte blir alltför jobbiga.

  11. cyndi says:

    hola! martin! realmente tu blog es MOTIVADOR!! nos siembras esa semillita de emprender aquellos sueños que conocer nuevos mundos, culturas, personas, sentimientos,creo que el concepto de DAR, COMPARTIR Y APRENDER!! esta aquii!! sigue con esa naturalidad y sencillez con la que plasmas tus historias!!

    te seguire leyendo!!
    fue un gustazo conocerlos!

    abrazos ,
    Cyn 🙂
    amiga de cristhian, peru

    • Alfred says:

      Cyndi! Que buena onda, y que feliz estoy cuando leo tu commentario! Esto es uno de los razones porque hago el blog, para motivar y abrir el mundo 🙂

      Un error; No es el blog de Martin, es de Alfred! Dificil saber, no tengo el nombre en la pagina.

      Espero que puedes hacer un viaje asi un dia, es meraviglia! Si llegas a Suecia, solo llamame 🙂

      Buena suerte!

  12. Tony says:


    Mycket spĂ€nnande reseskildring man fĂ„r ta del av genom er. Den innehĂ„ller allt en gammal cyklist kan önska – cykling, strapatser och fantastiska miljöer. Ska förestĂ€lla mig era vyer nĂ€r jag cyklar in till jobbet i stan imorgon bitti. Lycka till med fortsĂ€ttningen. Jag ser fram emot att lĂ€sa mer.

    Tony Pedalpendlare

  13. Anders says:

    Tack för att ni delar era fina erfarenheter:) Min Ridgeback Àr vÀldigt avundsjuk! Ta vÀl hand om er pojkar. Jag ser fram emot att ses mellan sex ögon och höra mer ingÄende om er resa.

    • Alfred says:

      Anders, vad kul att höra frÄn dig! Vi fÄr absolut trÀffas, du har ju ocksÄ en spÀnnande resa att dela med dig av. Ta hand om dig!

  14. Peder says:

    HallÄ Martin och Alfred!
    Ser riktigt grymt ut upptÀcka peru pÄ hojarna, kul att ni lÀgger upp bilder hÀr.
    Önskar er mĂ„nga Ă€ventyr!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *